i did little comparison between 16mm lens on 1 inch from nikon V1 and 35mm fullframe lens on APS-C sensor on Sony NEX5T. both lenses have similar prices on ebay for used models. (less than 80$) both lenses are pretty sharp.
nikon V1: iso 100, @F1.4, 25mm, vintage super16-C mount lens:
sony NEX5T: iso 200, @f1.4, olympus Zukio 50mm,f1.4, vintage fullframe lens:
fullsize images: nikon V1: iso 100, @F1.4, 25mm, vintage super16-C mount lens: sony NEX5T: iso 200, @f1.4, olympus Zukio 50mm, vintage fullframe lens:
currently i am working on FX book. here a little sub chapter of it.
To create special effects digital you don’t have to recreate or simulate physically correct like in real world. its not possible anyway. you do not need fancy, custom made solvers. in most cases you just need ordinary standard tools which every 3D package has. First you have to understand, how nature works from visual viewpoint. the most important thing before you start an effect is, to research: References. you should get as many References as possible. lets use a waterfall / watersplashes as an example. Many fx-artists use videos as visual Reference, but they do not analyze it or do it wrong. most Reference videos give you an idea how your endresult should look like, but you have to remember most of videos are shot in 24 or 30 fps. that means you see motionblurred frames, but you will work opengl viewport of 3d software, with means without motionblur. if recreate you a simulation based on movie, it will ready have motionblured look and the renderengine will add a motionblur at rendertime and this makes your fx streaky (you double the motionblur).
most of the time i go out shot reference video or pictures by myself. l prefer my Nikon v1 Camera. Its cheap (300$), have highend lenses, do superslow motion videos and shot with 1/16000 shuttertime. but any DsLR,with 1/4000 shutter, should do the Trick as well. With shuttertime of 1/4000 or 1/16000, you will get a frame of your reference without motionblur. as you see in the example:
(click on the images and look at the shuttertime on bottom of the images) if you use “highspeed” images as reference for your scene to create shapes for droplets, you get more realistic look of your effect. your rendersoftware will add correct motionblur.
closeup look at droplets: motionblur (1/160 shutter) and without motionblur (1/8000 shutter)
after you got proper references, you need to read your reference images and extract information to understand visual language. as you can see there are not just bunch blurred particle falling down. there a lot of clumbing “blobb’ing” going on. more details how to read and analyze the reference, i will explain it in part 2
i got on bay industar-69 28mm F2.8 for 30 bucks from ukraine. and old lens for old russion camera from early 70’s. with the leic m39 adapter it makes pretty small package together with nex5. there old lenses and heavly used. same of the lense can have lot vignette or scratches etc. same people buying 3-4 lense to get a good one. i just gamble and order the next best one. my lens was medium-heavy used its have same vignette wide open. before you use on nex you adjust the bolt/stopper inside the lens. its quite easy, you just need smal screwdriver. mike kobal have how-to video on his blog.
the lens is not the sharpest wide but its still ok. it gets better at 5.6. its not sharper lens but its has nice look, specially in black and white. overall it makes a nice street shooter lens if you not wanna get supersharp images for huge prints. the best thing is: its so small. because this smal pancake size the apture control is on the front side of the lens, which is little annoying. the lens is metal build and feels soild. the focus ring need many turns if focus from far to close. with the removed bolts (show in the video) i can focus close as 20cm.
*edit i’ve used the TEKTON 2987 Precision Screwdriver Set. a another thing, i found out, the lens can not focus to infinity. because of the distance to nex sensor. you need filing down the focus ring. –> the focusring can turn deeper into lens body and allows a infifinty focus. check out the images. shoot in 2.8 and 5.6
same time ago i bough a lens on ebay for 40 bucks. the minolta rokkor-x 45mm F2.0 prime lens. its really old lens, manuel focus, but really good optics. with a adapter, i got really high end lens. the focus peaking helps the find focus fast but for really sharp images you need “MF assist” option of the nex (a digital 14x zoom). the lens itself is plastic and very light, but feels solid. i am surprise about the good quality of the lens. the old bad things is the MD adapter is little big. the lens without the adapter would a perfect compact size for nex5. but overall a really good lens, not much to complain. –> i will use it more times.
for 250-300 bucks you can get the sony macro lens for nex system. its f-stop 3.5 until 16 and is very light and well build. the close distance is 2-3 cm and the lens give very nice bokey. lens itss pretty sharp, specially for the price. the autofocus is fast. Exceptionally portable and versatile for everyday use. its not the fastet lens with F3.5, but otherwise there are no complains. a great lens ! its very shot review but there is nothing tell except the technical details which you can view on the web anyway. click images to see full size:
100% crop: you can see clearly the dust on my watch…
a example how autofocus system works in video –> look here